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THE 
EXPERT DESIGNER 

A Practical and Up-to-date Work 
on the Art of Designing and Pat- 
tern-Making of Women's Cloaks 
Suits Waists Dresses and Skirts 

By 
Prof. S. SCHORR 



Publishers 

AMERICAN PATTERN COMPANY 

New York 



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COPYRIGHT 1917. BY SAUL SCHORR 

Entered according to act of Congress in the office 

of the Librarian of Congress at Washingtoto,.^ 

D. C. and any infringements on the 

Copyright will be prosecuted to 

the fullest extent of 

the law. 




©GU47S4n7 
SEP 10 191/ 



RELATIVE PROPORTION MEASUREMENT FOR FEMALE 



BUST 24 26 28 .■;0 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 

Waist 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 26 28 30 M 

Hips 26 28 30 il 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 

Scye depth S'U 6'4 6'4 7 7^4 7>o 7% 8 814 8J/2 ■S.% 

Waist length 12 13 13), 14 14U 15 15jo 15>o I53.0 \5% 15% 

Across Back 10 lO'-i 11 iV/z 12 12J/0 13 ^ 133-^0 14 uy, IS 

Strap 8-% 934 9% 1034 10% 1134 11% 1234 12% 1334 13% 

Over-shoulder U 11% 123'2 1334 14 14-4 15 34 16% 17 17% 1834 

17 '.J 18 

18 18 



Acr.Chest aver 1 1 3 


I 12% 13 


13% 14': 


15% 16 


163: 


17 


Sleeve 1 


12 14 


16 17 


1732 18 


18 


18 



Note, l^he Across Chest and Across Bust measures having been added together and 
divided in half, thus giving the Average Across Chest measure. 



HOW TO TAKE MEASUREMENT 



Fig. 101 Place the tape measure from the center of back neck over the shoulder, 
continue down the front of shoulder, under the arm, and straight across the center back 
seam in a horisontal line- Place a pin or make a light chalk mark where the tape measure 
meets the center back seam horisontally. 



Fig. 1 02 Scye Depth Measure : Measure from the center of back neck to the point 
where the pin had been placed or the chalk mark has been made. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 101 



Diagram 102 



Fig. 103. Back Wais Length Measure : From the center of back neck down to the 
to the natural waist length.- Continue down to the full length as desired. 



Fig. 104. Across Back Measure : This measure is taken from one arm scye to the 
other across the back. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 





Diagram 103 



Diagram 104 



Fig. 105. Over Shoulder Measure : From the depth of scye on the back seam over 
the shoulder and down to the level of the bottom of scye in front. 



Fig. 106 Front Waist length Measure : From the center of back neck to the center 
of waist at front. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 105 



Diagram 106 



Fig. 107. Bust Depth Measure : From the center of back neck to the brow of bust. 
Fig. 108. Strap Measure : From the center of back neck to the bottom of scye in 



front. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 








Diagram 107 



Diagram 108 



Fig. 1 09. Side Waist Length Measure : From the center of back neck to the waist 
at the side. 



Fig. I 10 Sleeve Length : From the center of back neck to the wrist at front; the in- 
seam of the sleeve to be found by deducting the Strap measure from the sleeve length 
measure. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 





Diagram 109 



Diagram 110 



Fig. 111. Across Chest Measure ; From the front of scye on one side to the front 
of scye on the other. 



Fig. i 12. Across Bust Measure : From the top of the front of scye over the fullest 
part of the bust up to corresponding point on the other side. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 111 



Diagram 112 



Fig. 1 1 3. Around Bust Measure : This measurement is to be taken easily around 
the fullest part of bust and well up unher the arm. 



Fig. I 14. Around Waist Measure : Around the waist taken closely. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 





Diagram 113 



Diagram 114 



Fig. 115. Around Hips Measure : About 7 inches below the waist taken fairly 
around the hips. 



MEASUREMENT FOR SKIRTS 

Diagram 1 I 6 

1-1 Around the waist. - 2-2 Around the hips. - 3-4 Front length. - 1-5 Side length. 

6-7 Back length 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 115 



Diagram 116 



Measurement 

1 -2 Scye Depth 

1-3 Back Waist Length 
4-4 Across the Back 
2-3-6 Over Shoulder 

1-6 Strap 

1-7 Front Waist Length 

1 -8 Bust Depth 

1-9 Side Waist Length 
6-10 Sleeve Length 

11-11 Across Chest 
6-6 Across Bust 
6-2-6 Around the Bust 
9-3-9 Around the Waist 

12-12 Around the Hips 

Measurement for Skirts 

9-9 Waist, 12-12 Hips, 7-13 Front length, 9-14 Side length 
9-13 Back length 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 117 



Systematic Outline 

Diagram 2. 
MEASUREMENT 



Scje depth S inches 

Back Waist Icnirth I 5 ' j inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Over-Shoulder 16' 4 inches 

Strap 12 '4 inches 

Front-Waist lenjith Mearure 22' 

Bust Depth 16 inches 



inche 



Side-Waist lenyth 2{)^ -^ inches 
Sleeve length 18 inches 
Across Chest 15 inches 
Across Bust 19 inches 
Around Bust 40 inches 
Around Waist 28 inches 
Around Hips 4 I inches 



TO DRAFT 



A. Draw a straigth line as from A to D. 

B from A is the Scye-depth measure, 8 in. 

C from A is the Back-Waist length. 15' j in. 

D from C is 6 inches 

Square out lines from A. B, C and D 

E from B is the halt Bust measure and 4 in. 
more for seams, in this case 24 inches 

F is the half-«ay between B and E. 

G is the half-way between E and F. 

His the half-way hetween B and F. 

1 from A is 5 ' _■ inches. 

J from I is 2 '4 inches on line squared from I. 
Draw a line from A to J. 

K from A is half of the distance hetween B-H 

L is located d\ a line squared out from K. 

M from H is 2 inches or by measure IVl 
from B is the half Across back measure anh 1 
inch more, in this case 8 inches 

N from M is ] '4 inch less than the Scye- 
depth measure, in this case 6 '4 inches. 

O from N is ';. inch on line drawn from L 
trough N. 

P is the center hetween N and M. 
Draw a line from O to P. 

R is located on line squared up from G hy 



applying the Strap measure and '4 inch more 
in this case I 3 inches, measering from A to L 
and continued from G to R. 

S from G is .< ' 4 inch, or by measure S from 
E is the half average chest measure snd '4 inch 
more, in this case 9, '4 inches. To find the av- 
erage chest measure take the half across chest 



'Vi^ 



nches, add this to the half across bust 



measure 9' 2 inches - together I 7 inches ;half 
of that amount is 8' 2 anh '4 inch more makes 
9'4 inches. 

T is located on line squared up from S by 
appl\infr the Over Shoulder measure and 1/4 
inch more, in this case 17/^ inches, measurin 
from B to about the middle of line L - O and 
continued from S to T. 

U is located by drawing a line from R trough 
T and is from R th; same length as O from L. 

V from S IS 2 inches. 

Draw a line from U to V. 



W fr 



R 



inchc 



X from W is '4 inch more than K from A. 

Draw a line from X to E. 
Y is located by a line squared down from E. 
Z is located by a line squared down from F. 



NOTICE 

To all Diagrams - designed in this Systematic Outline - are seam allowances of 's inch allowed. 
In all Diagrams - designed in this Systematic Oudine - is the Waist measure 14 iiu hes less than 

the Bust measure, and the Hips I inch more than the Bust measure. 
See Waist- and Hi]:) measure alterations by Diagram i. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 2 



Tight-Fitting with One Dart 



Diagram 3. 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2 '4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 



23 from 15 is % inch for seam. 

Shape both side-gores as represented. 

24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the 
same length as 9 to 10. 

25 from 1 1 is 1 Vz inches. 

Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 



through 2 as represented for the fashionable 26 from 2 is 1 % inches. 



waist line. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 



27 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 26. 

28 from G is 3'/4 inches. 

29 from 28 is 2 inches on line drawn par- 
allel with line 1-2. 



6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 30 is located by drawing a line from 29 
from 3 to 5. parallel with line E-26. 

Shape back part as represented. 31 from 30 is l'^ inches. 1 

7 from 5 is % inch. 32 from 30 is 2% inches. 

8 from 6 is 1 inch. 33 from 29 is the same length as 31 from 

9 from F is Va inch. 29. 

10 from 1 is % inch. Draw a line from 24 to 33 for the run 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 of the waist line. 

through 10. 34 is located by drawing a line from 31 

12 is the half-way between H and 9. parallel with line E-27. 

13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 35 from 34 is % inch more than the dis- 

14 is located by drawing a line from 12 tance from 31 to 32. 



through 13. 

15 from 12 is 1 inch. 

16 from 13 is Vz inch. 

17 from 13 is Vz inch. 

18 from 14 is 1 inch. 

19 from 14 is 1 inch. 

20 from 11 is Vz inch. 

21 from P is Vz inch. 

22 from 21 is Vs inch for seam. 



3S from 27 is Vs inch. 

Shape the center of front; finish on the 
front the neck gorge, shoulder, armhole and 
dart as represented. 

37 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 
24. 

38 from 35 is 1 '^ inches. 

39 from 31 is the same length as 38 from 
33. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



WAIST SUPPRESSION. 

By applying this System the half Waist measure is with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. 
For instance, 20 half Bust has 13 half Waist measure, 24 half Bust has 17 half Waist measure, 17 half 
Bust has 10 hfllf Waist measure, etc. 

It is Very easy to change the draft to your actual Waist measure, by following the instructions as below: 

The difference between the half actual Waist mea'ure and the half systematical Waist measure is to 
be added to by larger actual waist measure and to be taken off by smaller actual waist measure at the front dart. 

For instance by dralting a pattern with 40 bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure 
will be 13 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is 13'/2 inches, than you have to take out at 
the front dart Vz inch less: in this case take out on the draft from 30 to 32 only 2Vi inches. 

By drafting a pattern of 44 Bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 15 
inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is only 14 '/2 inches than you have to take out at the 
front dart Vz inch more; in this case take out 3'/4 inches on draft from 30 to 32. 

HIPS DEVELOPMENT. 

By applying this System the half Hips measure is with Vl inch more than the half Bust measure. For 
instance 20 half Bust has 20'/2 half Hips measure, 24 half Bust has 24'/2 half Hips measure, etc. 

It is very easy to change the draft to your actual Hips measure by following the instruction as below: 

The difference between the half actual Hips measure and the half systematical Hips measure is to be 
added to by larger actual Hips measure and to be taken off by smaller actual Hips measure on the hip line 
equally divided at potnts 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20. 

For instance bv drafting a pattern of 40 Bust measure the half of the systematical Hips measure will 
be 2OV2 inches, and if the half of your actual Hips measure is 22'/2 inches, than you have to allow 2 inches 
on the hip line equally divided at points 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20, and vica-verse. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 3 



Tight-Fitting with Two Darts 



Diagram 4. 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is ZVa inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 as represented for the fashionable 
waist line. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1 ^^ inches. 

5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 

G from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
from 3 to 5. 
Shape back part as represented. 

7 from 5 is % inch. 

8 from 6 is 1 inch. 

9 from F is % inch. 

10 from 1 is % inch. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 
through 10. 

12 is the half-way between H and 9. 

13 is the half-way betv/een 7 and 10. 

14 is located by drawing a line from 12 
through 13. 

15 from 12 is 1 inch. 

16 from 13 is Vz inch. 

17 from 13 is Vz inch. 

18 from 14 is 1 inch. 

19 from 14 is 1 inch. 

20 from 1 1 is Vz inch. 

21 from P is Vz inch. 



22 fr 



21 



h fc 



IS ^.s men tor seam 



23 from 15 is -Vh inch for seam. 

Shape both side-gores as represented. 

24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the 
same length as 9 to 10. 

25 from 11 is IVz inches. 

Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 



26 from 2 is 1% inches. 

27 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 26. 

28 from G is 3!4 inches. 

29 is located by drawing a line through 31 
parallel with line 1-2. 

30 is located by drawing a line from 29 
through 28. 

31 is the half-way between 29 and 30. 

32 is the half-way between 29 and 31. 

33 is located by drawing a line from 32 par- 
allel with line 29-26. 

34 from 33 is % inch. 

35 from 33 is % inch. 

36 from 32 is the same length as 34 from 
32. 

37 from 35 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 

38 from 37 is 2 inches. 

39 from 31 is the same length as 37 from 
31. 

Draw a line from 24 to 39 for the run 
of the waist line. 

40 is located by drawing a line from 34 par- 
allel with line 26-27. 

41 from 40 is l'^ inches. 

42 from 41 is V4 inch more than the dis- 
tance from 35 to 37. 

43 from 42 is 2'/2 inches. 

Shape the center of front; finish on the 
front the neck, shoulder, armhole and darts 
as represented. 

44 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 
24. 

45 from 43 is 1 V4 inches. 

46 from 37 is the same length as 45 from 
39. 

47 from 27 is Ys inch. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 4 



Tight-Fitting Back and Semi-Fitting Front 



Diagram 5. 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/j inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/t inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 as represented for the fashionable 
waist line. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 

6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
from 3 to 5. 

Shape back part as represented. 

7 from 5 is % inch. 

8 from 6 is 1 inch. 

9 from F is -/i inch. 

10 from 1 is % inch. 

1 1 is located by drav/ing a line from 9 
through 10. 

12 is the half-way between H and 9. 

13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 

14 is located by drawing a line from 12 
through 13. 

15 from 12 is 1 inch. 

16 from 13 is Vz inch. 

17 from 13 is Vz inch. 

18 from 14 is 1 inch. 

19 from 14 is 1 inch. 

20 from 1 1 is '/? inch. 

21 from P is Vz inch. 



22 from 21 is % inch for seam. 

23 from 15 is Vs inch for seam. 

Shape both side-gores as represented. 

24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the 
same length as 9 to 10. 

25 from 1 1 is 1 Vz inches. 

Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 

2G from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw line from E through 26. 

27 from G is SVa inches. 

23 from 27 is 2 inches on line drawn par- 
allel with line 1-2. 

29 is located by drawing a line from 28 
parallel with line E~26. 

30 is located by drawing a line from 28 
through 29. 

31 from 29 is Vz inch. 

32 from 30 is % inch. 

33 from 29 is 2Vz inches. 

34 from 28 is the same length as 31 from 
28. 

Draw a line from 24 to 34 for the run 
of waist line. 

35 from 30 is 3'/4 inches. 

Finish the front as represented. 

36 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 
24. 

37 from 35 is 1 '^ inches. 

38 from 31 is the same length as 37 from 
34. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 5 



Blouse 

Diagram 6. 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows : 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/} inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the half-way between F and M. 

5 from 4 is % inch. 

6 from 1 is 4 inches 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 4 is % inch. 

8 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 
2 from E. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 6 



Basque or Tunic Skirt 

Diagram 7. 

Measurers 

Waist 26 inches. Hips 42 inches. 

To Draft 

A. Draw a straight line as from A to 1. 

B from A is the half Waist measure, in this case 13 inches, 
C from B is 6 inches. 
D from A is 2 inches. 

E from D is 1 inch on line squared dawn from D. 
F is located by a line sweeped from B, pivoting at A. 

G is located by a line sweeped from C, pivoting at A, and is from C 'A 'nch more than the 
half Hips measure, in this case 2IV2 inches. 

B--C is the front iine, and F--G is the back line. 

To Lengthen the Skirt 

1 is located by drawing a line from B through C to the length measure as desired. 

2 is located by drawing a line from F through G to the length measure as desired. 

3 is the center between B and F. 

4 from 1 is 1 V2 inches less than the half distance between 1 and 2, and is from 3 .the 
length as desired. 

5 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 4. 

6 from 5 is 1 inch. 

7 from 4 is the half difference between the width of bottom from 1 to 2 and the width 
of bottom as required. 

8 from 4 is the half difference between the width of bottom from 1 to 2 and the width 
of bottom as required. 

Cut out the space 6--7--8-6 as represented, and join together 6--7 with 6--8 to get 
the Dart on the waist line as represented on the bottom draft 3-6-3. 



NOTICE: On this draft are seams not allovk^ed. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 7 



Shirt Waist 

Diagram 8 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2 '/i inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waistline as represented. 

3 from C is 4 inches. 

4 from 1 is 4 inches. 

5 is located by a line squared up from D. 

Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 

6 from C is 2 inches. 

7 from 4 is % inch. 

Draw Imes A.6-7 for tight-fitting back, and for loose back draw line from A to 7 

8 is the center of F-M. 

9 from 8 is Vi inch. 

10 from 8 is 1/2 inch. 

1 1 from 1 is 4 inches. 

12 is the center of 1-11. 

13 from 12 is 21/2 inches. 

1 4 is located by drawing a line from X through E and is from E the same length as 5 from E. 

Finish front and back as represented. 

The back center for tight-fitting back is A.6.7 and for gathering the back at the waist 
allow fulness m the waist by drawing a line from A to 3 as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 8 



Shirt Waist with Side Gore 

Diagram 9 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline then continue 
as follows: 

1 from Z is '/a inch, 

2 from Y is 2Vi inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 4 inches. 

4 from 1 is 4 inches. 

5 is located by a line squared up from D. 

6 from C is 2 inches. 

7 from 3 is 1% inches. 

8 from M is 1 '^ inches. 

9 from 8 is V2 inch. 

10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the space from A to K. 

1 1 from 7 is 1 inch more than the space from 6 to 10. 

12 is located by shaping the line from 9 to 10, 

Finish the back part as represented. 

13 from 10 is % inch. 

14 from 11 is IV2 inches and is from 13 the same length as 11 from 10 

1 5 from F is % inch. 

16 from 1 is % inch. 

Draw line from 15 to 16. 

17 from 16 is % inch. 

18 from 1 is 1 inch. 

19 is the centre of 17-18. 

20 from 19 ts 21/2 inches. 

21 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 5 from E 

Finish the side gore and front as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 9 



Tight- Fitting Waist Lining 

Diagram 10 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue 
as follows: 

1 from Z is '72 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 4 inches. 

4 from 1 is 4 inches. 

5 is located by a line sciuared up from D. 

Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 

6 from C is 2 inches. 

7 from 3 is % inch. 

8 is the centre of F-M. 

9 from 8 is % inch. 

10 from 8 is % inch. 

1 1 from 1 is 4 inches. 

12 is the centre of 1-1 1. 

13 from 12 is 2'/2 inches. 

Finish back part as represented: 

14 from 2 is 1% inches. 

15 is located by drawing a line from E through 14. 

16 from G is 3'^ inches. 

17 from 16 is IVz inches on line drawn parallel with line 1-2. 

18 is located by drawing a line from 17 parallel with line E-14. 

19 from 18 is 1 '/4 inches. 

20 from 18 is 2% inches. 

21 from 17 is the same length as 19 from 17. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 19 parallel with line 14-15. 

23 from 22 is 4% inches. 

24 from 1 5 is % inch. 

Finish the front and back as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 10 



Tight- Fitting Waist Lining with Side Gore 

Diagram 1 1 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue 
as follows: 

1 from Z is Yz inch. 

2 from Y is ZVz inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 4 inches. 

4 from 1 is 4 inches. 

5 is located by a line squared up from D. 

Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 

6 from C is 2 inches. 

7 from 3 is 1% inch. 

8 from 12 is 1 '/) inches. 

9 from 8 is V2 inch. 

10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 

11 from 7 is 1 inch more than the distance from 6 to 10. 

12 is located by shaping a line from 9 to 10. 

Finish back part as represented. 

13 from 10 is % inch. 

14 from 1 1 is Wz inches, and is from 13 the same length as 1 1 from 10. 

15 from F is % inch, 

16 from 1 is % inch. 

Draw line from 15 to 16. 

17 from 16 is % inch. 

18 from 1 is 1 inch. 

19 is the centre of 17-18. 

20 from 19 is ZVz inches. 

21 from 2 is 1% inches. 

22 is located by drawing a line from E through 21. 

23 from. Gis 3'/4 inches. 

24 is located by drawing a line through 26 parallel with line 1-2. 

25 is located by drawing a line from 24 through 26. 

26 is ttie centre of 24-25. 

27 is ttie centre of 24-26. 

28 is located by drawing a line from 27 parallel with line E-21. 
2y from 28 is %; inch. 

3u trom 28 is % inches. 

31 IS located by drawing a line from 29 parallel with line 21-22. 

3'Z trom 31 is 1 '/4 inches. 

33 30 is 1 mch less than the distance from A to K. 

3t trom 32 is V4 inch more than the distance from 30 to 33. 

3d trom 33 is 2 inches. 

3o trom 26 is the same length as 33 from 26. 

3/ trom 34 is 2 ',4 inches. 

36 trom 22 is % inch. 

Shape front and side gore as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 1 1 



Sleeve Construction for Waist 

Diagram l2 

1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 

2 from 1 is the sleeve length measure. 

Square a line up from 2. 

3 from 1 is a quarter of the full bust m.easure on a line squared up from 1. 

4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 

5 is the centre of 1-2. 

6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 

7 is the centre of 2-4. 

8 is the Centre of 1-3. 

Square out a line from 8 as represented. 

9 from 8 is 2 inches. 

10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from 1. 

1 1 from 1 is 2 inches. 

Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 3. 

12 is the centre of 10-11. 

13 is the centre of 3-10. 

14 from 12 is Wz inches. 

15 from 13 is % inch. 

16 from 3 is Vz inch. 

17 from 3 is Vainch. 

18 from 6 is 2 inches. 

19 from 5 is 3 inches. 

20 from 7 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from 4 through 20. 

21 from 20 is 1 inch. 

22 from 20 is 1 inch. 

23 from 4 is V2 inch. 

24 from 21 is '/> inch. 

Draw all construction lines as represented. 

Sleeve for Waist 

Diagram 13 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Sleeve Construction for waist 
then continue as follows: 

Shape the top sleeve as represented dy lines between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-11. 
Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 





''^--^ 1 




VJ^ 


>3 




izyi 




6 


^^^-^^^^^.^-^^^ 






^^~~^^^^^.,^^^ 




==:==^^^^^^^^^ 






1 


• 


18 






^><^^ 




^^^^^^^---^ 




84 




<A 


J20 


■-^ 


9 


22"^^^ 


\^^ 


19 






12«/ 
/l4 


4 


2 ^^^^\^ 

9 ^ 


5 

f 


\ 


F 


11 / 



Diagram 12 




Diagram 13 



Collars 



Ulster Collar 

Diagram A 

1-2. Draw a line from i through 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of 
the baak neck. 

4 from 3 is 1*4 inches on line squared 
down from 3. 

5 from 1 is I '4 inchs on line squared 
down from I . 

Draw a straight line from 5 to 4. 
Draw a line for the collar stand from 
3 through 2 to 3. 

6 from 3 is the collar width as desired on 
line squared out from 3. 

7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. 

Shape the collar as indicated. 

Standing or Military Collar 



Die 



B 



1 -2. Draw a Ime from 1 through 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width 
of the back neck. 

Square up and down from 3 

4 from 3 is I inch. 

5 from 3 is I inch. 

6 from 1 is I ' I inches. 

Shape the collar as represented. 

Stand-Rolling Ulster Collar 

Diagram C 

1-2 Draw a line from I through 2 to 3 

3 from 2 is "4 inch more than the width of 
th back neck. 

4 from 3 is i '4 inches on line squared 
down from 3. 

5 from I is I '4 inches. 

6 from 4 is the width of collar desired on 
on line squared down from 4. 

7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. 

Shape the collar as indicated. 

The stand at 5-2-3 is to be stretched. 

Stand-rolling Military Collar 

Diagram D 

I -2 Draw a line from I through 2 to 3. 

3 from 2 is ' ( inch more than the width 
of the back neck. 

Squre up and down from 3. 

4 from 3 is I inch. 

5 from 3 is I inch. 

6 from I is I' t inches. 

7 from 5 is the width of the roll collar as 
desired. 

8 fom 7 is ^ 2 inch for spring. 



9 from 6 is the width as desired. 

Finish the collar as represented. 
The outer leaf of the collar line 9-7-8 
must be slightly stretched. 

Roll and Button High Collar 

Diagram E 

1 is the soulder point. 

2 from 1 is 1*4 inches, 

3 is the end of the break of lapel. 

4 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 2. 

Draw a line from 4 through I to 5. 

5 from I is '4 inch more than the width of 
the back neck. 

6 from 5 is 1 '4 inches on line squared 
down from 5. 

7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired 
on line squared up from 5. 

8 from 7 is ' j inch for spring. 

Finish the collar as represented. 

Standing Lay Down Collar 
from two pieces 

Diagram F 

1-2-3-4 is the standing collar, which was 
produced accordingly Diagram B. 

5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches, and is the same 
length from 2 as I from 2. 

6 from 2 is the widtli of tiie collar desired 
on line drawn from 2 through 3. 

7 from 6 is ' _■ inch for spring. 

Finish the collar as represented. 

Storm Collar 

Diagram G 

For producing this collar take a stand- 
ing collar and cut it in three pieces. 
1-2 IS the bottom of standing collar. 
3-4 is the top of standing collar. 
5-6 are located by dividing the b„ltom of 

three parts. 
7-8 are produced by dividing the top line 
of the collar of three parts. 

Depart the pieces at point 7 and 8 so 
far as much fulness you desire and finish 
the collar as represented. 

Allow for seams between the pieces. 

Flat Collar 

Diagram H 

For producing this collar put to gether 
the front and back at the shoulder so, that 
they should overlap '4 inch for taking the 
seams off, and mark the collar to shape 
desired. 



THE EXPERT DE :NER 

BY S. SCHORR 






Diagrams 14-20 



Tight-Fitting Eton with One Dart 

Diagram 21. 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then con- 
tinue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2V^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the half-way between F and M. 

5 from 4 is % inch. 

6 from 1 is 4 inches. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 4 is % inch. 

8 from 2 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from E to 8. 

9 from G is 3'^ inches. 

10 from 9 is IVz inches on line drawn from 9 parallel with line 1-2. 

11 is located by drawing a line from 10 parallel with line E-8. 

12 from 1 1 is IV^inches. 

13 from 11 is 2% inches. 

14 from 10 is the same length as 12 from 10. 

Finish the Front as represented. 

If you wish to have a close back, take off % inch seam at the back center from 
A to 3. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 2 1 



Tight-Fitting Eton with Two Darts 

Diagram 22. 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/) inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 is the half way between F and M. 

5 from 4 is % inches. 

6 from 1 is 4 inches. 

Finish the back as represented. 

7 from 4 is % inch. 

8 from 2 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from E to 3. 

9 from G is 314 inches. 

10 is located by drawing a line through 9 parallel with line 1--2. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 10 through 9. 

12 is the half-way between 10 and 11. 

13 is the half-way between 10 and 12. 

14 is located by drawing a line from 13 parallel with line E--8. 



15 from 14 

16 from 14 

17 from 16 

18 from 17 

19 from 12 



s Ve inch. 

s 5/8 inch, and is from 13 the same length as 15 from 13. 

s 1 inch less than the distance between A and K. 

s 2 inches. 

s the same length as 17 from 12. 



Finish the front as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 22 



Tight-Fitting Eton with One Side-Gore 

Diagram 23. 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
as represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from P is % inch. 

5 from H is % inch. 

6 from 3 is the same as K from A. 

Finish the back part as represented. 

7 from 6 is % inch. 

8 from 4 is Vi inch. 

9 from 8 is % inch for seam. 

10 from F is V/i inches. 

11 h-om 1 is 214 inches. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

12 from 10 is ^^ inch. 

13 from 1 is '^ inch. 

14 from 2 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from E to 14. 

15 from G is 3'^ inches. 

16 from 15 is V/i inches on line drawn parallel with line 1-2. 

17 is located by drawing a line from 16 parallel with line E-14. 

1 8 from 17 is 1 '4 inches. 

19 from 17 is 2% inches. 

20 hom 16 is the same length as 18 from 16. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 23 



Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam 

Diagram 24. 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is Vz incfi. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from O is % inch. 

5 is the half-way between L and 4, or located accordingly style and taste. 

6 from 3 is the same as K from A. 

7 is located by drawing a line from 5 to 6 as represented. 

8 from 6 is % inch. 

9 from 5 is Ys inch and is '/( inch higher from the line L--0. 

10 from 4 is Ys inch and is V^ inch higher from line L-4. 

1 1 from P is % inch. 

12 from F is Wi inches. 

13 from 1 is 2V^ inches. 

Finish the back part and the back side gore as represented. 

14 from 12 is % inch. 

15 from 1 is V4 inch. 

16 from 2 is 1% inches. 
Draw a line from E to 16. 

17 from G is 3'/( inches. 

18 from 17 is I'/j inches on line drawn parallel with line 1--2. 

19 is located by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E--16. 

20 from 19 is 1 1/4 inches. 

21 from 19 is 2% inches. 

22 from 18 is the same length as 20 from 18. 

23 from R is the same length as L to 5. 

Draw a line from 23 to 18. 

24 from 23 is % inch. 

Draw a line from 24 parallel with line 23-- 18 as represented. 
Finish the front as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 24 



Tight-Fitting French Seam 



Diagram 25. 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/) inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from O is 44 inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

Draw a line from 5 to 6. 

7 is the half-way between 5 and L, or make 
the width to style or taste. 

8 from 3 is 1 inch less than A to K. 

9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 
as represented. 

10 from 4 is % inch more than 3 to 8. 

1 1 from 8 is % inch. 

12 from 10 is 1 inch. 

13 from F is % inch. 

14 from 1 is % inch. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
through 14. 

16 is the half-way between 9 and 13. 

17 is the half-way between 11 and 14. 

18 is located by drawing a line from 16 
through 17. 

19 from 17 is '/2 inch. 

20 from 17 is V2 inch. 

21 from 18 is 1 inch. 

22 from 18 is 1 inch. 

23 from 15 is Vz inch. 

24 from 7 is Vs inch, and is '/) inch higher 
from the line L-5. 



25 from 5 is % inch, and is from 6 the 
same length as O from P. 

26 from 16 is 1 inch. 

27 from 26 is % inch for seam. 

Finish the back and side gores as rep- 
resented. 

28 from 14 is % inch, and is from 13 the 
same length as 14 from 13. 

29 from 15 is IV2 inches. 

30 from 2 is 1% inches. 

31 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 30. 

32 from 31 is Yg inch. 

33 from G is 3'^ inches. 

34 from 33 is 2 inches on line drawn from 
33 parallel with line 1-2. 

35 is located by drawing a line from 34 par- 
allel with line E -30. 

36 from 35 is 1 '/) inches. 

37 from 35 is 2% inches. 

38 from 34 is the same length as 36 from 
34. 

39 is located by drawing a line from 36 par- 
allel with line E-31. 

40 from 39 is 4% inches. 

41 from R is the same width as L to 7. 

Draw a line from 41 to 34. 

42 from 41 is ^4 inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 42 parallel with line 
41-34. 

43 from 14 is the same length as 29 from 
28. 

44 from 40 is 1 V4 inches. 

45 from 36 is the same length as 44 from 
38. 

Finish the front as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 25 



Tight- Fitting Double French Seam 



Diagram 26. 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/? inch. 

2 from Y is 2 '/a inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from O is % inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

Draw line from 5 to 6. 

7 from L is the half of distance from A 
to K. 

8 from 3 is the half of distance from A 
to K. 

9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 

10 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
from 3 to 8. 

1 1 from 8 is '/i inch. 

12 from 10 is Vi inch. 

13 from 5 is '/? inch more than L to 7. 

14 from 1 1 is Vz inch more than 3 to 8. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
to 14. 

IS from 12 is % inch more than 1 1 to 14. 

Finish the middle back part as repre- 
sented. 

17 from 14 is V? inch. 

18 from 16 is '/? inch. 

19 from F is % inch. 

20 from 1 is % inch. 

21 is located by drawing a line from 19 
through 20. 

22 is the half-way between 15 and 19. 

23 is the half-way between 17 and 20. 

24 is located by drawing a line from 22 
through 23. 

25 from 23 is Vz inch. 

26 from 23 is Vz inch. 

27 from 24 is 1 inch. 

28 from 24 is 1 inch. 

29 from 21 is Vz inch. 

30 from 13 is Ys inch, and is Va inch higher 
from line L~5. 

3 1 from 5 is % inch, and is from 6 the same 
length as O from P. 

32 from 22 is 1 inch. 

33 from 32 is Vs inch for seam. 

Finish the side gores as represented. 



34 from 20 is % inch, and is from 19 the 
same length as 20 from 19. 

35 from 21 is Wi inches. 
3S from 2 is 1% inches. 

37 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 36. 



38 fr 



37 



is Vs inch 



39 from G. is 3'^ inches. 

40 is located by drawing a line through 39 
parallel with line 1-2. 

41 is located by drawing a line from 40 
through 39. 

42 is the half-way between 40 and 41. 

43 is the half-v/ay between 40 and 42. 

44 is located by drawing a line from 43 par- 
allel with line E-36. 

45 from 44 is % inch. 

4G from 44 is Va inch, and is from 43 the 
same length as 45 from 43. 

47 is located by drawing a line from 45 par- 
allel with line E~37. 

48 from 47 is 1 Va inches. 

49 from 46 is 1 inch less than the distance 
from A to K. 

50 from 48 is Va inch more than the distance 
from 46 to 49. 

51 from 49 is 2 inches. 

52 from 42 is the same length as 49 from 
42. 

53 from 50 is 2'/i inches. 

54 from R is Ys inch more than the distance 
from. L to 7. 

Draw line from 54 to 43. 

55 from 54 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 55 parallel with line 
54-43. 

56 from U is the same width as 30 to 31. 

57 from 56 is -/a inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 57 to 42. 
Draw a line from 56 parallel with line 
57-42. 

58 from 20 is the same length as 35 from 34. 

59 from 53 is 1 Va inches. 

60 from 49 is the same length as 59 from 52. 

61 from 48 is the same length as 60 from 50. 

62 from 45 is the same length as 61 from 46. 

Finish the front as represented. 

By cutting out the pattern allow extra 
% inch for seams all way down at lines 
7--8--10, and 7-11-12. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 26 



Collars and Lapels 



Allow for button stand at the center of front for single breasted 1 to 2 inches, for 
double breasted 3 to 4 inches. 

Showl Collar 

Diagsam I 

1 is the shoulder point 

2 from I is 1 inch. 

3 is the end of the break of lapel. 

4 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck on line drawn from 3 through 2 

Square up and down from 4. 

5 from 4 is I '4 inches. 

6 from 2 is I '4 inches. 

7 from 4 is the width of the collar desired. 

Allow about '4 inch for spring at point 7. 
Shape the collar and lapel as represented. 

Single Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar 

Diagram 2 

From I to 7 are the same points as described by the Showl Collar, then finish the 
lapel and collar as indicated. 

Double Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar 

Diagram 3 

From 1 to 7 are the same points as described by the Showl Collar, then finish the 
lapel and collar as indicated. 

Two Pieces Collar 

Diagram 4 

First mark the front and back, than continue as follows: 

1 is the shoulder point. 

2 from I is I '4 inches. 

3 is the end of the break of lapel. 

4 from 2 is the width of the collar desired. 

5 from 2 is 1 '4 inches. 

6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 3. 

Shape the collar and lapel as indicated by points 2-3-4 
Finish the front collar as represented. 

Trace over the lapel by breaking the paper on the crease line 2-3, and finish lapel. 
7-8 is the back neck. 

9 from 7 is 2' 2 inches. 

10 from 9 is the same width as 8 from 7 on line squared out from 8. 

I 1 from 10 is the same length as 4 from 5 on the front and is located inside from the back 
shoulder so much as point 4 is outside from the front shoulder. 
Finish tde back collar ar represented. 



THE E vFERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 



DIAGFAM 1 



DIAC 



DIAGRAM 3 





-J 



DIAGRAM 4 



v.,''^ 



t / 




Diagram 27 



Tight- Fitting 18 Gores 



Diagram 28. 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches. 

4 from D is 1% inches. 

5 from O is % inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

Draw a line from 5 to 6. 

7 from L is the half of distance from A 
to K. 

8 from 3 is the half of distance from A 
to K. 

9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 

1 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
from 3 to 8. 

Finish the back part as represented. 

1 1 from 8 is Va inch. 

12 from 10 is Vz inch. 

13 from 5 is Vz inch more than L to 7. 

14 from 1 1 is the same width as 3 to 8. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
to 14. 

16 from 12 is % inch more than 11 to 14. 

Finish the middle back part as repre- 
sented. 

17 from 14 is Vz inch. 

18 from 16 is 



lir 



inch. 
. '/4 inches. 

20 from 1 is l'^ inches. 

21 is located by drawing 
through 20. 

22 is one-third of 15-19. 

23 is the half way between 15-22. 

24 is one-third of 17-20. 

25 is the half-way between 17-24. 
2o is located by drawing a line from 

through 24. 
27 is located by drawing 
through 25. 

inch. 



19 



22 
line from 23 



28 from 25 is % 

29 from 25 is V^ 

30 from 24 is Va 

31 from 24 is Va 

32 from 20 is Va 

33 from 27 is Vz 

34 from 27 is Vz 

35 from 26 is Vz 

36 from 26 is Vz 

37 from 21 is Va 



nch. 
nch. 
nch. 
nch. 
nch. 
nch. 
nch. 
nch. 
nch. 



38 from 13 is Ys inch, and is Va inch higher 
from line L-5. 

39 from 5 is Vs inch, and is from 6 the same 
length as O from P. 

40 from 23 is 1 inch. 

Finish the side gores as represented. 



41 from 20 is Va inch, and is from 19 the 
same length as 32 from 19. 

42 from 21 is 1 inch. 

43 from 2 is 1% inches. 

44 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 43. 

45 from 44 is % inch. 

46 from G is 3'/t inches. 

47 is located by drawing a line through 46 
parallel with line 1-2. 

48 is located by drawing a line from 47 
through 46. 

49 is the half-way between 47 and 48. 

50 is the half-way between 46 and 47. 

51 is the half-way between 48 and 49. 

52 is located by drawing a line from 50 par- 
allel with line E-43. 

53 from 52 is % inch. 

54 from 52 is % inch, and is from 50 the 
same length as 53 from 50. 

55 is located by drawing a line from 53 par- 
allel with line E -44. 

56 from 55 is 1 Va inches. 

57 from 54 is 1 inch less than ihe distance 
from A to K. 

58 from 56 is Va inch more than 57 from 54. 

59 from 57 is Wz inches, and is from 49 
the same length as 57 from 49. 

60 from 58 is 1% inches. 

61 is the half way between 41 and 59. 

62 is located by drawing a line from 51 
through 61. 

63 from 61 is Va inch. 

64 from 61 is Va inch. 

65 from 62 is Va inch. 

66 from R is % inch more than the distance 
from L to 7. 

Draw a line from 66 to 50. 

67 from 66 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 67 parallel with line 
66-50. 

68 from U is the same width as 38 to 39. 

69 from 68 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 69 to 49. 
Draw a line from 68 parallel with line 
69-49. 

70 is the half-way between S and V. 

71 from 32 is the same length as 42 from 41. 

72 from 61 is \Va inches. 

73 from 57 is the same length as 72 from 59. 

Finish the front as represented. 
By cutting out the pattern allow extra 
for seams all way down as follows: 



% 
% 
% 
Va 
Va 
Va 



nch at Hne 7-9-8 10. 
nch at line 7 9-11-12. 
nch at line 70 51 63 65. 
nch at line 70-51 64-62. 
nch at line 19-32-71. 
nch at line 22 31-35. 
nch at line 40-23 29-32. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S, SCHORR 




Diagram 28 



Tight- Fitting 22 Gores 



Diagram 29. 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is Vz inch. 

2 from Y is 2 '4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 2 inches, 
from D is 1% inches. 



4 
5 

6 



O is % inch. 



from 

from P is V4 inch. 
Draw a line from 5 to 6. 

7 from O is 2 inches. 

8 from L is one-third of distance from L 
to 7. 

9 from 3 is 1% inch less than K from A. 

10 from 4 is % inch more than 3 to 9. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 8 to 9. 

Finish the back part as represented. 

12 from 9 is '4 inch. 

13 from 10 is % inch. 

14 is the half-way between 7 and 8. 

15 from 12 is % inch less than 3 to 9. 

IS from 13 is ^/4 inch more than 15 from 12. 

17 is located by drawing a line from 14 
to 15. 

18 from 15 is V4 inch. 

19 from 16 is yis inch. 

20 from 18 is ihe same as 3 to 9. 



inch 



more 



th 



an 



li 



21 from from 19 is 
to 20. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 20. 

23 from 20 is ['4 inch. 

24 from 21 is Vz inch. 

25 from F is 1 '/) inches. 
2C from 1 is 1 '/( inches. 

27 is located by drawing 
through 25. 

28 from 25 is cne-ihird 
25 to 22. 

29 is the half-way between 22 and 28. 

30 is one-;hird of distance from 26 to 23 

31 is the half-way between 30 and 23 

32 is located by drawing a line from 
through 30. 

33 is located by drawing 
through 31 



of 



line from 25 
disiance from 



ine trom 



28 
29 



34 from 31 is 

35 from 31 is Vs 
3G from 30 is '4 

37 from 30 is V4 

38 from 26 is V4 

39 from 33 is % 

40 from 33 is 'A 

41 from 32 is % 

42 from 32 is '/. 

43 from 27 is V4 

44 from 7 is ' 



inch. 

inch. 

inch. 

inch. 

inch. 
I inch. 

inch. 
; inch. 
; inch. 

inch, 
inch, and is 



'4 inch higher 



than line L-0. 

45 from 5 is Vs inch, and is the same length 
from 6 as O from P. 

46 from 29 is 1 inch. 

Finish the side gores as represented. 

47 from 26 is '/It inch. 

48 from 27 is 1 inch. 

49 from 2 is 1 '/It inches. 

50 is located by drawing a line from E 
through 49. 



31 

52 
53 

54 

55 

5S 

57 

58 

59 

SO 
61 
62 
C3 
G4 
C5 

g: 

67 

G8 
G9 



71 

72 

3 

74 
75 
7C 

77 



line through 
ne from 53 



from 50 is % inch, 
from G is 3 '4 inches, 
is located by drawing a 

52 parallel with line 1-2. 
is located by drawing a 
through 52. 

from 53 is one-fifth of the distance from 

23 to 54. 

from 55 is one-fifth of the distance from 

53 to 54. 

from 56 is one-fifth of the distance from 

53 to 54. 

from 57 is one-fifth of the distance from 

53 to 54. 

is located by drawing a lime from 55 

parallel with line E~49. 

from 59 is Vz inch. 

from 59 is Vz inch. 

from 61 is 1 V4 inches less than K from A. 

from 62 is 1 inch. 

from 63 is the same as 62 from 61. 

from 64 is % inch. 

is the half-way between 65 and 47. 



a line from 58 



is located by drawing 

through 66. 

from 66 is V4 inch. 

from 66 is V4 inch. 

is located by drawing a line from 60 

parallel with line E~50. 

from 70 is 1 inch. 

from 71 is '4 inch more than 62 from 61. 

from 72 is 1 Vs inches. 

from 73 is V4 inch more than 64 from 63. 

from 74 is % inch. 

from 67 is '/t inch. 

from R is % inch more than 8 from L. 

Draw a line from 77 to 55. 
from 77 is '/) inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 78 parallel 
77-55. 



illel with line 



79 from 78 is 44 inch more than 14 from 8 
SO 



Draw a line from 79 to 56. 
from 79 is % inch for seams. 
Draw a line from 80 parallel with line 
79 56. 
81 from U is the same as 45 from 44. 
32 from 81 is V4 inch for seams. 
Draw a line from 82 to 57. 
Draw a line from 81 parallel with line 
82-57. 

83 is the half-way between S and V. 

84 from 38 is the same length as 48 from 47. 

85 from 75 is 1 V4 inches. 

8S from 64 is the same length as 85 from 65. 
Finish the front and bottom as repre- 
sented. 

By cutting out the pattern allow extra 
for seams all way down as follows : 



% 


nch at 


line 8-9 10. 


Vs 


nch at 


line 8 12 13. 


% 


nch al 


line 14-15-16 


Vs 


nch at 


line 14-18 19 


V4 


nch at 


line46 35 39 


V4 


nch at 


line 28-37-41 


V4 


nch at 


line 25-38-84 


Vs 


nch at 


line 83-69-67 


Vs 


nch at 


line 83-68 76 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 29 



Semi -Fitting Back and Loose Front 

Diagram 30. 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Ootline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 1 V2 inches. 

4 from 3 is a '/) inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

7 from H is % inch. 

8 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 

9 from 5 is % inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. 

Finish the back as represented. 

10 from 8 is V2 inch. 

1 1 from 9 is 1 V2 inches. 

12 from 6 is V2 inch. 

13 from F is % inch. 

14 from 1 is % inch. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 

16 from 14 is V2 inch. 

17 from 1 is V2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 

18 from 15 is V2 inch. 

19 from 15 is 1 inch, and is from 17 the same length as 18 from 16. 

20 is located by line squared out from E. 

21 from 2 is V2 inch. 

Draw line from E through 21. 

Finish the front and side gore as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 30 



Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front 

Diagram 31. 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Ootline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/i inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as 
represented. 

3 from C is 1 V2 inches. 

4 from 3 is a Va inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from P is % inch. 

7 from H is % inch. 

8 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 

9 from 5 is % inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. 

Finish the back as represented. 

10 from 8 is V2 inch. 

1 1 from 9 is 1 '/> inches. 

12 from 6 is V2 inch. 

13 from F is % inch. 

14 from 1 is % inch. 

15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 

16 from 14 is V2 inch. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

17 from 1 is Vz inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 

18 from 15 is 1 inch. 

19 from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw line from E through 19. 

20 from G is 3 V4 inches. 

21 from 20 is l'/2 inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 

23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 

24 from 22 is V2 inch. 

25 from 24 is 3 inches. 

26 from 21 is the same lenghth as 24 from 21. 

27 from 23 is % inch. 

28 from 27 is 3% inches. 

Finish the front as represented. 

29 from 16 is the same length as 18 from 17. 

30 from 28 is l'^ inches. 

31 from 24 is the same length as 30 from 26. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 3 1 



Semi-Fitting French Seam 



Diag 



ram 



32. 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows : 

1 from Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is ZVa inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
as represented. 

3 from C is 1 V2 inches. 

4 from 3 is V4 inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from O is % inch. 

7 from P is % inch. 
Draw a line from 6 to 7. 

8 is the half-way between 6 and 4, or make 
the width to style or taste. 

9 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance 
from A to K. 

10 from 5 is % inch more tham the distance 
from 4 to 9. 

1 1 is located by drawing a line from 8 to 9 
as represented. 

Finish the back as represented. 

12 from 9 is V2 inch. 

13 from 10 is IV2 inch. 

14 from F is V4 inch. 

15 from 1 is ^4 inch. 

16 is located by drawing a line from 14 
through 15. 

17 from 15 is Vz inch. 

18 from 8 is Vs inch. 

19 from 6 is Vs inch. 



20 from 18 is ''4 inch. 

21 from 7 is the same length as O from P. 

Finish the side gore as represented. 

22 from 1 is V2 inch. 

23 from 16 is 1 inch. 

24 from 2 is 2 inches. 

25 from G is 3'/4 inches. 

26 from 25 is IV2 inches on line drawn from 
25 parallel with line 1—2 

27 is located by drawing a line from 26 
parallel with line E--24. 

28 is located by drawing a line from 26 
through 27. 

29 from 27 is V2 inch. 

30 from 28 is % inch. 

31 from 29 is 3 inches. 

32 from 26 is the same length as 29 from 
26. 

33 from 30 is 3% inches. 

34 from R is the same width as L to 8. 

Draw a line from 34 to 26. 

35 from 34 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 35 parallel with line 
34-26. 

36 from 16 is '/t inch. 

37 from 22 is the same length as 36 from 
17. 

38 from 33 is 1 V4 inches. 

39 from 29 is the same length as 38 from 
32. 

Finish the front and bottom as repre- 
sented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 32 



Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect 



Diagram 33. 



First lay up all points to your measure 
as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2 ',4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
as represented. 

3 from C is 3 inches. 

4 from 1 is 3 inches. 

5 from 2 is 3 inches. 

Draw lines from 3 to 4 and from 4 to 5 
as represented. 

6 from 3 is I'/i inches. 

7 from D is 1 inch. 

8 from P is % inch. 

9 from H is % inch. 

10 from 6 is 1 '/t inch more than K from A. 

11 from 7 is % inch more than 10 from 6. 

Finish the back as represented. 

12 from 10 is V4 inch. 

13 from 1 1 is IV2 inches. 

14 from F is % inch. 

15 from 4 is % inch. 

16 is located by drawing a line from 14 
through 15. 

17 from 15 V4 inch. 

Finish the back-side gore as represented. 

18 from 4 is '/t inch. 

19 from 16 is 1 inch. 



20 from 2 is 2 inches. 

21 from G is 3'/i inches. 

22 from 21 is lYz inches on line drawn from 
21 parailed with line 18-5. 

23 is located by drawing a line from 22 
parailed with line E--20. 

24 is located by drawing a line from 22 
through 23. 

25 from 23 is V4 inch. 

2Q from 23 is % inch, and is from 22 the 
same lenght as 25 from 22. 

27 is located by drawing a square line up 
from the hip line to 26. 

28 from V is % inch. 

Finish the front as represented. 

29 from A is the length of garment as 
desired. 

30 is located by a line squared out from 29. 

31 is located by a line squared out from 29. 

32 is located by a line squared out from 29. 

33 from 12 is the same length as 30 from 10. 

34 from 17 is the same length as 35 from 18. 

35 is located by a line squared out from 29. 
3S from 32 is 1 V4 inches. 

37 is located by drawing a line from 25 
through 24, and is from 25 the same 
length as 36 from 26. 

38 from R is 1 inch. 

Allow for button stand 2 inches for single 
breasted and 3 inches for double breasted. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 33 



Semi-Fitting Coat with Underarm Gore. 

Diagram 34. 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is ^/i inch. 

2 from Y is 21/4 inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is l'/2 inches. 

4 from 3 is '^ inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from M is % inch. 

7 from 6 is % inch. 

8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 

9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 

10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. 

Finish the back as represented. 

1 1 from 7 is 1 '/2 inches. 

12 from 9 is l'/2 inches. 

13 from 8 is 2 inches. 

14 from 10 is 1% inches. 

15 is located by drawing a shaped line from 11 to 14 as represented. 

16 from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from E through 16 for the run of front center. 

1 7 from G is 3 '^ inches 

18 from 17 is '/2 inch. 

19 is located by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E--16. 

20 is located by drawing a line from 18 through 19. 

21 from 19 is '/2 inch. 

22 from 21 is 3 inches. 

23 from 18 is the same length as 21 from 18. 

24 from 20 is % inch. 

25 from 24 is 3% inches. 

26 from V is % inch. 

27 from 26 is % inch. 

28 from A is the length of garment as desired. 

29 is located on line squared out from 28. 

30 from 15 is the same length as 29 from 8. 

3 1 is located on line squared out from 28. 

32 from 31 is 1 '/4 inches. 

33 from 21 is the same length as 32 from 23. 
Finish the front and underarm gore as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 34 



Sac Coat with Loose Front 

Diagram 35. 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/? inch. 

2 from Y is 2Vi inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is 1 '/2 inches. 

4 from 3 is '/t inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from M is % inch. 

7 from 6 is ^^ inch. 

8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 

9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 

10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. 

Finish the back as represented. 

1 1 from 8 is Vz inch. 

12 from 10 1% inches. 

13 from F is Vz inch. 

14 from 1 is '/i inch. 

15 from 14 is 2Vz inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 

16 from 14 is % inch. 

17 from 14 is % inch. 

18 from 2 is Vz inch. 

19 from A is the length of garment as desired. 

20 is located on line squared out from 19. 

21 is located by drawing a line from E through 18. 

22 from 1 1 is the sam.e length as 20 from 8. 
23 1 from R is 1 inch. 

24 is located by a line squared down from S and is 2 Vl inches below the fashionable waist line. 

25 from 24 is V2 inch. 

26 is located by drawing a line from 25 through 15 and is the half of the pocket size, in this 
case 3 inches. 

27 is located by drawing a line from 26 through 25 and is the full pocket size, in this case 
6 inches. 

28 from S is 1 inch. 

29 from G is V2 inch. 

30 is located by drawing a line from 28 through 29, and is in this case 5 inches long. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 35 



Sac Coat with Shaped Front 

Diagram 36. 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is '/? inch. 

2 from Y is 2'/t inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 

3 from C is Wz inches. 

4 from 3 is '4 inch. 

5 from D is 1 inch. 

6 from M is % inch. 

7 from 6 is % inch. 

8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 

9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 
10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. 

Finish the back as represented. 
1 1 from 8 is '/> inches. 

12 from 10 is 1% inches. 

13 from F is Vz inches. 

14 from 1 is Vz inch. 

15 from 14 is 2'/2 inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 

16 from 14 is Vz inch. 

17 from 14 is Vz inch. 

18 from 2 is 2 inches. 

19 from G is 3'/} inches. 

20 from 19 is IVz inches on line drawn from 19 parallel with line 1—2- 

21 is located by drawing a line from 20 parallel with line E— 18. 

22 is located by drawing a line from 20 through 21. 

23 from 21 is Vz inch. 

24 from 22 is % inch. 

25 from 23 is 3 inches and is from 20 the same length as 23 from 20. 

26 from 24 is 3% inches 

27 from A is the length of garment as denired. 

28 is located on line squared out from 27. 

29 is located on line squared out from 27. 

30 from 1 1 is the same length as 28 from 8. 

31 from 29 is 1 Vi inches. 

32 from 23 is the same length as 31 from 25. 

33 from R is 3% inches. 

34 from 33 is % inch for seams. 

Finish the draft as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 36 



How to make Shoulder Dart 

Diagram 37. 

To make a shoulder dart we must have first a french seam front. 
Put the two parts together so that they should lap over ^4 inch from A to C 
and B to D as represented. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 37 



Loose Box Coat 

Diagram 38. 



First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from Z is V2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented. 

3 is the half-way between F and M. 

4 from 3 is % inch. 

5 from 3 is % inch. 

6 from 1 is V4 inch more than 5 from F. 

7 from 6 is 1 '^ inches. 

8 from C is % inch. 

9 from A is % inch. 

10 from L is V4 inch. 

1 1 from R is % inch. 

12 from 2 is Vz inch. 

Draw a line from E through 12. 

13 from A is the length of garment as desired. 

14 is located by a line squared out from 13. 

15 from 14 is V2 inch. 

16 from 4 is the same length as 15 from 5. 

17 is located by a line squared out from 13. 

1 8 from 17 is 1 '4 inches. 

19 from 11 is 1 inch. 

Allow for button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. 
Finish the draft as represented. 

if you wish to have the back center without seam, take off % inch seam at the back 
center. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 38 



Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 

Diagram 39 

First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
continue as follows: 

1 fom Z is '/2 inch. 

2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 

Draw Lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented. 

3 is the half-way betveen F, and M. 

4 from 3 is Ys inch. 

5 from 3 is Ys inch. 

6 from 1 is '^ inch more than 5 from F. 

7 from 6 is 1 '/j inches. 

8 from C is % inch. 

9 from A is % inch. 

10 from L is 'A inch. 

1 1 from R is % inch. 

12 from 2 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from E through 12 as represented. 

13 from G is 3'/4 inches. 

14 from 13 is Wz inches on line drawn from 13 parallel with line 1-2. 

15 is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. 

16 is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. 

17 from 16 is Vz inch. 

18 from 17 is 3 inches. 

19 from 14 is the same length as 17 from 14. 

20 from 15 is Vs inch. 

21 from 20 is 3% inches. 

22 from A is the full length as desssired. 

23 is located by a line squared up from 22, 

24 is located by a line sqoared up from 22. 

25 is located by a line squared up from 22. 

26 from 24 is Vz inch. 

27 from 4 is the same length as 26 from 5. 

28 from 25 is l'^ inches. 

29 from 17 is the same length as 28 from 19. 

30 from R is inch. 

Allow for button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. 

Finish the draft as represented. 

If you wish to have the back centre without seam, take off ,< inch seam at te back centre 

To get the front-shoulder dart make the front with french-seam as follows: 

31 from 11 is 3% inches. 

Draw a line from 31 to 14. 

32 from 31 is % inch for seams. 

Draw a line from 32 parallel with line 31-14 as represented. 

To get the shoulder dart bring the front parts together as described and illustrated in 
Diagram 37. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 39 



Sleeve Construction for Coat 

Diagram 40 

1. Draw a straight line as from I to 2 

2 from I is the Sleeve length measure. 

Square lines up from I and 2. 

3 from I is one-quarter of the full breast measure and I inch more. 

4 is located by a line squared out from 3. 

5 is the cente of 1-2. 

6 is located by a line squared out from 5. 

7 is the center of 2-4- 

8 is the center of 1-3. 

Square out line from 8. 

9 from 8 is 2 inches 

1 from 8 is the same length as 8 from i . 
I I from I is 2 inches. 

Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 3. 
12 is the center of 10-11 
1 3 is the center of 3- 1 0. 
I 4 from 1 2 is '.| inch. 
I 5 from 1 3 is 1 inch. 
1 6 from 3 is ' - inch. 
I 7 fron 3 is ' J inch. 

18 from 6 is 2 inches. 

19 from 5 is 3 inches. 

20 from 7 is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from 4 through 20. 

21 from 20 is 1 inch. 

22 from 20 is 1 mch. 

23 from 4 is ' J inch. 

24 from 21 is 'j inch. 

Draw all construction lines as represented. 



Sleeve for Coat 



Diagram 41 

First lay up all points to measure as described in Sleeve Construction for coat 
then continue as follows: 

Shape the top of sleeve as represented by lines between ll-lO-I 7-18-4-22-5-11. 
Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24 19-9. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 



BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 40 




Diagram 41 



Systematic Outline for Skirts 

Measurement 

Waist 26 inches, Hips 40 inches, Front length 40 inches, Side length 41 '^ inches. 

Back length 42 inches. 

A. Square both ways from A as reprerented. 

B from A is the half Waist measure and 3 inches more, in this case 16 inches 

C from B is 3 inches on line squared out from B. 

Draw a line from A through C and longer. 
D from A is 7 inches. 
E from D is the half Hip measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C, in 

this case 20 inches. 
F is located by a line squared out from E. 
G from F is 1 ^4 inches. 
H from A is the front length measure. 

1 from about the middle of line A-G is the Side length measure. 
J from G is the Back length measure on line drawn from G through E. 

Finish the bottom as represented. 



NOTICE : in all Drafts - designed in this Systematic Outline -are seams NOT allowed 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 64 



Four Gore (Panel) Skirt 

Diagram 65 



First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline for Skirts, then 
continue as follows: 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

2 from G is 3 inches. 

3 from H is 5 inches. 

4 from J is 5 inches. 

5 is the centre of 1-2. 

6 is the centre of D-E. 

Draw lines between 1 3,5-6 and 2-4 as represented. 

Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the 
actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1-5-2 as represented. 

For instance from A to G measures 18 inches; the half actual waist measure is 13 
inches; the surplus is 5 inches. This amount is to be taken out in darts. At the front (point 1) 
take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. 

In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2 two inches, and at point 5 two 
and half inches as represented. 

NOTICE: No seams or turning-in is allowed for in this Systematical Outline. 

Allow for all seams. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 65 



Six Gore Skirt 



Diagram 67 

First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue 
as follows : 

1 from A is 3 inches. 

3 from G is 3 inches. 

2 is the center between I and 3. 

4 from H is 5'j inches. 

5 from J is 5 ' J inches. 

6 from 4 is 1 inch less than the center between 4 and 5. 

Draw lines from I to 4. from 2 to 6 and from 3 to 5. 

Measure the waist line from A to Gjand the difference between this measure and 
the actual half waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1.2, 3 as represent- 
ed. 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 67 



SlUBaS 1[B JOJ MO||Y 

auipno iBDpBiu3}s/Cg siq^ ui lo] paMoj|B si ui-guiuan] jo suiBas oj^ =33IJLON 

■pajuasajda-i s^e saqoui j|bi{ puB 
OM} £ }uiod }B puB 'saijDui OM} ^ ?uiod }B 'l[dui j|Bi] B ^ }uiod }B }no aJ]B} aSBD SIl[} uj 

■jsoiu 3q} jno ayyept^ juiod) apis ai]} }b puB }SBa[ aij} ;no a}|B} 
(X }uiod) }uoaj at[} jy 'syBp ui jno ua>|B] aq oj si junouiB sii|j^ saijDui g si sn|djns aij} isaqaui 
£1 si a.msBaiu jsibm jBnpB jiBq aqj fsaijDui g^ sainssaui 3 o} y uiojj aauBisui jo j 

■pa}U3S9idaj sb g-^-I sjuiod jb s}iBp ui ;no ua>jB} aq o} si ajnsBaui jsibm pnpB 
aqi puB a^nsBaiu siqj uaaM^aq aaua^ayip aqj puB Q oj y uiojj aui| jsibm aq; ajnsBaj/\j 

•pajuasajdaj sb 9-g puBg-^'t''! uaa^jaq sauij mbjq 

•f puB g uaaM}aq ABM-jjeq aqi ueqj ssa| qaui ^ si g luojj 9 

9'P 1° pjiqj-auo uaq} ssa| qoui X si ^ luoij g 

•saqDui S SI j^ luojj -^ 

•Q puB 2 uaaMpq aj^uao aip si g 

•Q o} I uiOJj 3ui| aq} jo pjiqj-auo si i uiojj g 

•saqaui g si y uioxj \ 
:sMojjoj SB anui}uo3 
uaq; 'sjjiJjg jioj auijjnQ jBDpBuia^sXg ui paquDsap sb ajnsBaiu oj s^uiod [[b dn Xb[ }sji j 

^jijjS ajoQ uaA^s 



THE EXPERT DESIGNER 

BY S. SCHORR 




Diagram 68 






'->. 




























i " * ' o p ■• • " ^ *> 



'X A 'i' *\ --** -A , •^-- A> 



■-. >.o^' .■»;■- ^'0/ :■». V/ .■•». ^.„/ .: 












^-ot? 



•^^ 






■^-\/ ''=;-^%-.o- \-^^\/ '^o,;^%-/ 












^o. 
















°o 













.< 



<55 0x> 







-^^ 












■^^. * ' s • • . 



'^< 



^ 




°o 



o V 










-;"-. 












,- -^ 



o 






•:>. .<:■ 



V^ 






I Q* _ o " o . *<. />V 



L ' • 



X'nJNA^^^ j> -7 



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